Polaris xpedition 325 manual

Measure at various points especially at PTO. DCV: Direct current voltage. Dial Bore Gauge: A cylinder measuring instrument which uses a dial indicator. Good for showing taper and out-of-round in the cylinder bore. Electrical Open: Open circuit. Electrical Short: Short circuit. An electrical circuit which is completed before the current reaches the intended load. End Seals: Rubber seals at each end of the crankshaft. Foot Pound: Ft. A force of one pound at the end of a lever one foot in length, applied in a rotational direction.

Unit of weight in the metric system. HP: Horsepower. ID: Inside diameter. Inch Pound: In. Left Side: Always referred to based on normal operating position of the driver. Mag: Magneto. Magnetic Induction: As a conductor coil is moved through a magnetic field, a voltage will be generated in the windings.

Mechanical energy is converted to electrical energy in the stator. Unit of length in the metric system. Nm: Newton meters. OD: Outside diameter. Ohm: The unit of electrical resistance opposing current flow. Piston Clearance: Total distance between piston and cylinder wall.

PTO: Power take off. Regulator: Voltage regulator. Regulates battery charging system output at approx. Reservoir Tank: The fill tank in the liquid cooling system.

Resistance: In the mechanical sense, friction or load. In the electrical sense, ohms. Both result in energy conversion to heat. Right Side: Always referred to based on normal operating position of the driver. RPM: Revolutions per minute.

Secondary Clutch: Driven clutch on chaincase or jackshaft. Seized Piston: Galling of the sides of a piston. Usually there is a transfer of aluminum from the piston onto the cylinder wall. Possible causes: 1 improper lubrication; 2 excessive temperatures; 3 insufficient piston clearance; 4 stuck piston rings.

Stator Plate: The plate mounted under the flywheel supporting the battery charging coils. TDC: Top dead center. Volt: The unit of measure for electrical pressure of electromotive force. Measured by a voltmeter in parallel with the circuit. Watt: Unit of electrical power. WOT: Wide open throttle. Pre-Ride Inspection.

Recommended Lubricants and Capacities. Lubrication Charts. Front Gearcase Lubrication. Clutch Adjustment. Rear Gearcase Lubrication. Carburetor Adjustments. Throttle Adjustment. Fuel System.

Compression Test. Battery Maintenance. Cooling System Maintenance Breather Filter Air Box Sediment Tube Service. Recoil Housing. Valve Clearance Steering and Toe Alignment. Front Hub Maintenance. Exhaust System Service. Brake System Service. Suspension Service. Tire Inspection. Maintenance intervals are based upon average riding conditions and an assumed vehicle speed of approximately 10 MPH. Inspect, clean, lubricate, adjust or replace parts as necessary.

NOTE: Inspection may reveal the need for replacement parts. Always use genuine Polaris parts. For engine oil, short trip cold weather riding also constitutes severe use. Pay special attention to oil level. A rise in oil level in cold weather can indicate moisture collecting in the oil tank Change oil immediately if oil level begins to rise. Replace lines every 2 years. After draining system, slowly fill radiator filler neck hose to top of cap neck.

Check after a short period of operation allowing system to cool. Add if necessary. Fill master cylinder reservoir to in- As required. Change fluid every 2 years. See page 2. Change after 1st month, 6 months or hours thereafter; Change more often hours in extremely dirty conditions, or short trip cold weather operation.

Remove filler hole screw in hubs. If lubricant is not visible add until it flows from filler hole. Reinstall screw. SBe sure vehicle is level before proceeding. SCheck vent hose to be sure it is routed properly and unobstructed. The front gearcase lubricant level cannot be checked with a dipstick or by visual reference.

The gearcase must be drained and re-filled with the proper amount of lubricant. Refer to procedure below. To change lubricant: 1. Remove gearcase drain plug located on the bottom and drain oil. Catch and discard used oil properly. Clean and reinstall drain plug using a new sealing washer. Remove fill plug. Add proper amount of lubricant. See above. Install fill plug.

Check for leaks. Turn engine off. Remove protective cover to access adjuster screw. Loosen lock nut. Turn adjuster screw out counter clockwise until resistance is felt. Hold the screw in position and tighten the lock nut securely.

With machine on level ground, remove fill plug from rear gearcase. Insert dipstick until it stops squarely against the fill plug gasket surface, and then remove it Photo 1.

Lubricant level is acceptable if it is within the knurled area on the stick. The level can be checked without a dipstick. Refer to Photo 2 below right. If level is low, add the proper lubricant until level is correct on the dipstick, or until it is even with the center of the machined drill point inside the gearcase when viewed through the fill plug.

To change the lubricant: 1. Remove gearcase drain plug located on the bottom and drain the oil. Clean and reinstall drain plug with a new sealing washer and tighten securely to 14 ft. Add Oil level should be even with the center of the machined drill point inside the gearcase, viewed through the fill plug.

Reinstall fill plug. Tighten securely to 14 ft. Throttle lever operation should be smooth and lever must return freely without binding. Place the gear selector in neutral.

Set parking brake. Start the engine and let it idle. Turn handlebars from full right to full left. If idle speed increases at any point in the turning range, inspect throttle cable routing and condition.

If cable is routed properly and in good condition, repeat adjustment procedure. Replace the throttle cable if worn, kinked, or damaged. Firmly grasp the rubber boot and tighten until the choke slides freely but stays out when pulled. If smooth choke operation is not obtainable, inspect choke cable for kinks or sharp bends in routing. Start engine and warm it up to operating temperature about 10 minutes. This is a very important step. Turn pilot screw in clockwise until lightly seated.

Turn screw out the specified number of turns. Pilot Screw Adjustment. Refer to Specifications 3. Set idle speed to RPM. Always check throttle cable freeplay after adjusting idle speed and adjust if necessary. Slowly turn mixture screw clockwise using the pilot screw wrench until engine begins to miss. Slowly turn mixture screw counterclockwise until idle speed increases to maximum RPM. Continue turning counterclockwise until idle RPM begins to drop.

Center the pilot screw between the points in Step 5 and 6. Re adjust idle speed if not within specification. Start engine and warm it up thoroughly. Adjust idle speed by turning the idle adjustment screw in clockwise to increase, or out counterclockwise to decrease RPM.

Refer to Ill. Slide boot off throttle cable adjuster and jam nut. Place shift selector in neutral and set parking brake.

Start engine and set idle to specified RPM. NOTE: Be sure the engine is at operating temperature. See Idle Speed Adjustment. Loosen lock nut on in-line cable adjuster Ill. Turn cable adjuster out until engine RPM begins to increase. Tighten lock nut securely and slide boot completely in place to ensure a water-tight seal. Turn handlebars from left to right through the entire turning range.

If idle speed increases, check for proper cable routing. Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and refuel outdoors or in a well ventilated area.

Do not smoke or allow open flames or sparks in or near the area where refueling is performed or where gasoline is stored. Do not overfill the tank. Do not fill the tank neck. If you get gasoline in your eyes or if you swallow gasoline, see your doctor immediately. If you spill gasoline on your skin or clothing, immediately wash it off with soap and water and change clothing.

Never start the engine or let it run in an enclosed area. Gasoline powered engine exhaust fumes are poisonous and can cause loss of consciousness and death in a short time. Never drain the float bowl when the engine is hot. Severe burns may result. Check fuel lines for signs of wear, deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace if necessary.

Be sure fuel lines are routed properly and secured with cable ties. Replace all fuel lines every two years. Check vent lines on fuel tank, carburetor, battery, front and rear gearcases, and transmission for signs of wear, deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace every two years. Be sure vent lines are routed properly and secured with cable ties. Shut off fuel supply at fuel valve. Remove line clamps at both ends of the filter. Remove fuel lines from filter. Install new filter and clamps onto fuel lines with arrow pointed in direction of fuel flow.

Install clamps on fuel line. Start engine and inspect for leaks. NOTE: The bowl drain screw is located on the bottom left side of the float bowl. Turn fuel valve to the off position. Place a clean container beneath the bowl drain spigot or bowl drain hose. Turn drain screw out two turns and allow fuel in the float bowl and fuel line to drain completely. Inspect the drained fuel for water or sediment. Tighten drain screw. Start machine and check for leaks.

NOTE: If there is a tube attached, it must be replaced as this will effect engine performance. Compression readings will vary in proportion to cranking speed during the test. Average compression for a engine measured is about psi during a compression test. Smooth idle generally indicates good compression. Low engine compression is rarely a factor in running condition problems above idle speed. Abnormally high compression can be caused by a decompressor malfunction, or worn or damaged exhaust cam lobes.

Inspect camshaft and automatic decompression mechanism if compression is abnormally high. A cylinder leakage test is the best indication of engine condition on models with automatic decompression. Never use high pressure leakage tester as crankshaft seals may dislodge and leak. It contains sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from contact with skin, eyes or clothing.

Antidote: External: Flush with water. Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately. Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries produce explosive gases.

Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. Ventilate when charging or using in an enclosed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries. Do not use the alternator to charge the new battery. The battery is located under the left rear fender. Inspect the battery fluid level. When the battery fluid nears the lower level, the battery should be removed and distilled water should be added to the upper level line. To remove the battery: 1.

Disconnect holder strap and remove cover. Whenever removing or reinstalling the battery, disconnect the negative black cable first and reinstall the negative cable last! Disconnect the vent hose. Remove the battery. Remove the filler caps and add distilled water only as needed to bring each cell to the proper level.

Do not overfill the battery. To refill use only distilled water. Tap water contains minerals which are harmful to a battery. Do not allow cleaning solution or tap water to enter the battery. It will shorten the life of the battery. Reinstall the battery caps. Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire brush. Corrosion can be removed using a solution of one cup water and one tablespoon baking soda.

Rinse well with clean water and dry thoroughly. Reattach vent hose making sure it is properly routed and not kinked or pinched. Coat terminals and bolt threads with dielectric grease.

Reinstall battery cover and holder strap. Remove spark plug high tension lead. Clean plug area to ensure no dirt or debris can fall into engine when plug is removed. Inspect electrodes for wear and carbon buildup. Look for a sharp outer edge with no rounding or erosion of the electrodes.

Clean with electrical contact cleaner or a glass bead spark plug cleaner only. Measure gap with a wire gauge.

Refer to specifications for proper spark plug type and gap. Adjust gap if necessary by bending the side electrode carefully. If necessary, replace spark plug with proper type.

Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads. Install spark plug and torque to 14 ft. Be sure it is clean and tight. The recovery system components are the recovery bottle, radiator filler neck, radiator pressure cap and connecting hose.

As coolant operatingtemperature increases, the expanding heated excesscoolant isforced out of theradiator past the pressure cap and into the recovery bottle. As engine coolant temperature decreases the contracting cooled coolant is drawn back up from the tank past the pressure cap and into the radiator. SSome coolant level drop on new machines is normal as the system is purging itself of trapped air.

Observe coolant levels often during the break-in period. Do not dilute with water. SDo not use tap water, straight antifreeze, or straight water in the system.

Tap water contains minerals and impurities which build up in the system. SStraight water or antifreeze may cause the system to freeze, corrode, or overheat. Inspect all hoses for cracks, deterioration, abrasion or leaks. Check tightness of all hose clamps. Radiator hose clamp torque is 36 inch lbs.

Check radiator air passages for restrictions or damage. Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins. Remove any obstructions with compressed air or low pressure water. With the engine at operating temperature, the coolant level should be between the upper and lower marks on the coolant reservoir. If not: 1. Remove reservoir cap.

Reinstall cap. Be sure system is purged of air. See warning below! However, if the recovery bottle has run dry, or if overheating is evident, the level in the radiator should be inspected and coolant added if necessary. Escaping steam can cause severe burns. The engine must be cool before removing the pressure cap. NOTE: Use of a non-standard pressure cap will not allow the recovery system to function properly. To access the radiator pressure cap: Remove the four screws securing front rack.

Remove front cover by placing your fingers under the front of the cover and pulling upward. Engine cooling system cold. Elevate front of ATV slightly inches , then lower the front and elevate rear end. Rock machine side to side to allow air to move out of the system.

Install radiator cap. The engine breather filter should be inspected when the air filters are serviced. Replace if dirty or restricted. Slide clamps back and remove filter. Replace filter with directional arrow pointing to engine away from air box. Reinstall clamps. NOTE: Replace clamps if they have lost spring tension.

When riding in extremely dusty conditions replacement will be required more often. The pre filter should be cleaned before each ride, using the following procedure. Lift up on the rear of the seat. Pull the seat back and free of the tabs. NOTE: When reinstalling seat, make sure the slots in the seat engage the tabs in the fuel tank. Remove clips 6 from air box cover and remove cover. Inspect the gasket.

It should adhere tightly to the cover and seal all the way around. Loosen clamp and remove air filter assembly. Cleaning 5. Slip the pre-filter element off of main element. Clean the pre filter with high flash point solvent, followed by hot soapy water. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Inspect element for tears or damage. Apply foam filter oil or clean engine oil and squeeze until excess oil is removed. Inspect main element and replace if necessary. If the filter has been soaked with fuel or oil it must be replaced.

Installation Reinstall pre-filter element over main filter. Be sure the element covers entire surface of main filter without folds, creases, or gaps.

NOTE: The air filter should rest on the filter support. Proper placement of the air filter is important to prevent rattles and air leaks. See Illustration. Install air box cover and secure with clips. NOTE: Apply a small amount of general purpose grease to the sealing edges of the filter before reinstalling. Drain whenever deposits are visible in the clear tube. NOTE: The sediment tube will require more frequent service if the vehicle is operated in wet conditions or at high throttle openings for extended periods.

Remove drain plug from end of sediment tube. Allow deposits to drain completely. Reinstall drain plug and secure with clamp. SDrain the recoil housing after operating the ATV in very wet conditions. This should also be done before storing the ATV. The drain screw is located at the bottom of the recoil housing. Remove the screw with a 10mm wrench. Reinstall screw once housing has been drained. If it is not sealed properly, water may enter the recoil housing and damage components.

SWater will enter the recoil housing if the starter handle is disengaged from the rope guide while under water. SAfter travelling in wet areas the recoil housing and starter should always be drained completely by removing the recoil.

SDo not open the crankcase drain unless the engine has ingested water. Some engine oil will be lost if crankcase drain is opened. SIf recoil handle seal has been damaged, the handle should be replaced. Place vehicle on a level surface. Clean area around drain plug. Run engine two to three minutes until warm. Stop engine. Place a drain pan beneath engine crankcase and remove drain plug from under the crankcase. Do not allow hot oil to come into contact with skin as serious burns may result.

Allow oil to drain completely. NOTE: It is not necessary to drain the oil from the oil cooler, unless contaminants, water, or debris are found in the crank case oil.

Replace sealing washer on drain plug. NOTE: The sealing surfaces on drain plug and crankcase should be clean and free of burrs, nicks or scratches. Reinstall drain plug and torque to 14 ft. Place shop towels beneath oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn filter counterclockwise to remove. Using a clean dry cloth, clean filter sealing surface on crankcase. Lubricate O-ring on new filter with a film of engine oil.

Check to make sure the O-ring is in good condition. NOTE: The sealing surfaces on the drain plug and crankcase should be clean and free of burrs, nicks or scratches. Remove dipstick and fill sump with 4. Shift machine into neutral and set parking brake.

Start the engine and let it idle for one to two minutes. Stop the engine and inspect for leaks. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add oil as necessary to bring the level to the upper mark on the dipstick. NOTE: On Engines with the in--line H valve, perform Step 14 and Step 15 three times to ensure that the oil has properly circulated through the system and that the proper oil level is achieved.

Dispose of used filter and oil properly. Oil Tank Drain Plug Torque: 14 ft. Remove the seat. Remove body panels and fuel tank as necessary to gain access to valve cover. Remove the spark plug high tension lead and remove the spark plug. Remove plastic valve plugs. Remove timing inspection plug from recoil housing. Rotate engine slowly with recoil rope, watching the intake valve s open and close. The camshaft lobes should be pointing downward. In this position there should be clearance on all valves.

Insert a. Hold adjuster screw and tighten adjuster lock nut securely. Re-check the valve clearance. Repeat adjustment procedure if necessary until clearance is correct with locknut secured. Loosen locknut and turn adjuster screw until there is a slight drag on feeler gauge. When clearance is correct, hold adjuster screw and tighten locknut securely 4. Inspect o-rings on the plastic valve plugs, replace if damaged. Securely fasten valve plugs. Reinstall fuel tank and any body panels that were removed to gain access.

Remove body panels as necessary to gain access to valve cover. Timing Hole 3. Remove rocker cover bolts, cover and gasket. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap cover lightly with a soft-faced hammer to loosen it from the cylinder head. Rotate engine slowly with recoil rope, watching the intake valves open and close. NOTE: At this point watch the camshaft sprocket locating pin and slowly rotate engine until locating pin is facing upward, directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line as shown.

The camshaft lobes should be pointing downward, away from rocker arms. Repeat this step for the other intake valve. Loosen locknut s and turn adjuster screw s until there is a slight drag on feeler gauge s. NOTE: Both feeler gauges should remain inserted during adjustment of each valve. Feeler Gauge for Both Valves 3. Scrape gasket surfaces to remove all traces of the old gasket.

Reinstall the cover using a new gasket. Torque cover bolts to 72 in. Remove the shop towel from the spark plug cavity. Reinstall the spark plug. Torque to 14 ft. Reinstall the spark plug high tension lead. Reinstall the fuel tank if removed. Reinstall the fuel tank shroud.

Reinstall the left and right body panels. Also check to make sure all cotter pins are in place. If cotter pins are removed, they must not be re-used. Always use new cotter pins. Replace any worn or damaged steering components. Steering should move freely through entire range of travel without binding or excessive looseness. Check routing of all cables, hoses, and wiring to be sure the steering mechanism is not restricted or limited. NOTE: Whenever steering components are replaced, check front end alignment.

Use only genuine Polaris parts. Due to the critical nature of the procedures outlined in this chapter, Polaris recommends steering component repair and adjustment be performed by an authorized Polaris Dealer.

Only a qualified technician should replace worn or damaged steering parts. Use only genuine Polaris replacement parts. One of two methods can be used to measure toe alignment: the string method, and the chalk method. If adjustment is required, refer to following pages for procedure. If movement can be felt and fastener is tight, rod end is worn and must be replaced. SRepeat inspection for inner tie rod end on steering post. SReplace any worn steering components.

Steering should move freely through entire range of travel without binding. SElevate front end of machine so front wheels are off the ground. Try to move the wheel and hub by pushing inward and pulling outward. SIf abnormal movement is detected, inspect the hub and wheel assembly to determine the cause loose wheel nuts, loose front hub nut.

See note below. Measure from string to rim at front and rear of rim. NOTE: The steering post arm frog can be used as an indicator of whether the handlebars are straight. The frog should always point straight back from the steering post when handlebars are straight.

Place machine on a smooth level surface. Set handlebars in a straight ahead position and secure handlebars in this position. NOTE: The steering frog can be used as an indicator of whether the handlebars are straight. The frog should always point straight back from the steering post. NOTE: It is important that both marks be equally positioned from the ground in order to get an accurate measurement.

Measure the distance between the marks and record the measurement. Again measure the distance between the marks and record. If toe alignment is incorrect, measure the distance between vehicle center and each wheel. This will tell you which tie rod needs adjusting. NOTE: Be sure handlebars are straight ahead before determining which tie rod s need adjustment. If the rod end is positioned incorrectly it will not pivot fully, and may break. To adjust toe alignment: SHold tie rod end to keep it from rotating.

SLoosen jam nuts at both inner and outer tie rod end. Damage may not be immediately apparent if done incorrectly. See illustration. After alignment is complete, torque jam nuts to ft. NOTE: Do not force the fluid into the hub under pressure or seal damage may occur. Reinstall plug. Repeat procedure for other hub. Place a drain pan beneath the hub. Remove the clean out plugs located on the bottom of the muffler as shown at right. Place the transmission in neutral and start the engine.

Purge accumulated carbon from the system by momentarily revving the engine several times. If some carbon is expelled, cover the exhaust outlet and tap on the pipe around the clean out plugs while revving the engine several more times.

If particles are still suspected to be in the muffler, back the machine onto an incline so the rear of the machine is one foot higher than the front. Set the parking brake and block the wheels. Make sure the machine is in neutral and repeat Steps 2 and 3. If particles are still suspected to be in the muffler, drive the machine onto the incline so the front of the machine is one foot higher than the rear. Repeat Steps 2 through 5 until no more particles are expelled when the engine is revved.

Stop the engine and allow the arrestor to cool. Reinstall the clean out plugs. SBecause of the increased fire hazard, make sure that there are no combustible materials in the area when purging the spark arrestor. SWear eye protection. SDo not stand behind or in front of the vehicle while purging the carbon from the spark arrestor. SNever run the engine in an enclosed area. The exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas. SDo not go under the machine while it is inclined.

Failure to heed these warnings could result in serious personal injury or death. Service life of brake system components depends on operating conditions. Inspect brakes in accordance with the maintenance schedule and before each ride.

SCheck brake system for fluid leaks. SCheck brake for excessive travel or spongy feel. SCheck friction pads for wear, damage and looseness. SCheck surface condition of the disc. SInspect thickness of brake pad friction material. Tighten any loose fittings and replace any worn or damaged parts. First check foot brake effectiveness by applying a 50 lb. If free play is excessive, inspect pedal, linkage, and master cylinder for wear or damage and replace any worn parts.

Bleeding: If free play is correct and brake pedal travel is still excessive, air may be trapped somewhere in the system. Bleed the hydraulic auxiliary brake system in a conventional manner, following the procedure outlined in the Brake chapter. Support the rear wheels off the ground. While turning the rear wheels by hand, apply the auxiliary foot brake. This brake should not stop the wheels from turning until the lever is half way between its rest position and bottoming on the footrest.

Damping should be smooth throughout the range of travel. Check all front suspension components for wear or damage. Inspect front strut cartridges for leakage. Check all rear suspension components for wear or damage. Inspect shock for leakage. Shock spring preload can be adjusted using the shock spanner wrench.

Shock Spanner Wrench PN Make sure the brake handle does not contact the other controls. Check wheel nuts and ensure they are tight. Do not over tighten the wheel nuts. Stop the engine, place the transmission in gear and lock the parking brake. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. Elevate the side of the vehicle by placing a suitable stand under the footrest frame. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel. With the transmission in gear and the parking brake locked, place the wheel in the correct position on the wheel hub.

Be sure the valve stem is toward the outside and rotation arrows on the tire point toward forward rotation. Attach the wheel nuts and finger tighten them. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque listed in the table above. On rear wheel nuts, make sure tapered end of nut goes into taper on wheel. Refer to the warning tire pressure decal applied to the vehicle. SImproper tire inflation may affect ATV maneuverability.

SWhen replacing a tire always use original equipment size and type and replace in pairs. SThe use of non-standard size or type tires may affect ATV handling. Worn tires can cause an accident. Check that all cotter pins are in place. Refer to specific fastener torques listed in each chapter. Torque Patterns. Piston Identification. Special Tools. Engine Service Data. Cooling System Specs Cooling System Engine Removal. Engine Installation. Cylinder Honing.

Engine Lubrication and Pressure Test. Engine Oil Flow Chart Spark Plug Fouling Checklist. Transmission Troubleshooting. Engine Troubleshooting. Cooling System Troubleshooting Tighten crankcase fasteners in 2 steps following the sequence outlined below. The other numbers are used for identification as to diameter, length and design. Four stroke engine rings are rectangular profile. The numbers or letters on all rings except oil control rings must be positioned upward.

With hundreds of pages, it will show you how to distinguish any problem from an oil change to a transmission swap and how to fix it on your own.

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